Witness to the Birth of Jacksonville

The Only Surviving Witness to the Birth of Jacksonville

by JOSEPH E. MILLER on APRIL 14, 2010 · 4 COMMENTS

Jacksonville’s Treaty Oak
Jessie Ball DuPont Park

THE ONLY SURVIVING WITNESS TO THE BIRTH OF JACKSONVILLE

Woodman, spare that tree!
Touch not a single bough!
In youth it sheltered me,
And I’ll protect it now.
George Pope Morris, 1860

The famous Treaty Oak in Jacksonville, Florida, is the only attraction remaining of the once famous Dixieland Park amusement complex. Dwarfed while standing beside the Treaty Oak tree (Southern Live Oak), one can almost hear the sounds of people screaming and laughing and carnival ride noises emanating from the area that once occupied the property surrounding this enormous arboreal wonder (Quercus virginiana). The outcome of an errant acorn blown to its location by wind or dropped by a bird, it is hard to imagine something so small could result in something so tremendously huge.

“The Giant Oak,” as it was known for one hundred years or more, is located in Treaty Oak Park on the Southbank and is bordered by Main Street and the St. Johns River.  Even at the ripe old age of 200, 250 or as some suggest 300 years old, one can still touch, climb on or just picnic under a tree that has withstood the entire history of Jacksonville, Florida (founded 1832).  Actually, Treaty Oak (1760) sprouted 16 years before the founding of our country and 31 years before Cowford (1791-1832), as Jacksonville was previously known.

With a circumference of nearly 24 1/2 feet and limbs stretching out like octopus limbs from its trunk over 30 yards east and 30 yards west, the tree is truly a survivor of the past and overwhelmingly magnificent.

In fact, since the invention of still photography, Jacksonville natives as well as hundreds of thousands of visitors have posed with this proud old photogenic natural monstrosity.  

Images captured at the turn of the 19th century show small homes built directly under Treaty Oak’s canopy. If you look closely enough, small light bulbs are visible. These were part of the early electrical display in 1907, which attracted many tourists interested in seeing Treaty Oak illuminated and the new futuristic advancement known as electrical lighting.

During this period, a bronze plaque attached directly to the tree contained the following statement:

The oldest and largest tree in Florida, 160 feet across under the branches. At noon, it shades a space of 190 feet in diameter. Students of forestry say it is over 400 years old. The body of the tree is over 9 feet in circumference. It was Osceola’s favorite camp ground and was generally used for Indian councils of war.

Though we now believe the tree to be 250 years old, this is the only mention that could be found linking Indians and especially Osceola to the tree.

In the 1960’s, developers attempted to build structures directly up to Treaty Oak’s limbs, but luckily local support, bolstered by the city’s newspaper (The Florida Times-Union), saved the tree and its surrounding property. It was actually one of its staff writers, Roland (Pat) Moran (now deceased) who gave “The Giant Oak” the honorary title Treaty Oak. It was honorary since no official record exists to describe the fact that a treaty was ever signed at Treaty Oak.

Today, buildings encroach the once hallowed grounds north of the tree. But, thanks to the quick thinking by local women’s groups and a donation from philanthropist Jessie Ball DuPont, the remaining undeveloped area south of the tree was purchased and saved for all to enjoy.

It is hard to imagine and maybe morbid to discuss the death of Treaty Oak, but all things die. It could happen by old age, high winds (a downblast several years ago eliminated an entire park of Jacksonville’s treasured 100-year-old oaks), hurricanes or even a devilish act.

In 1988, a crazed ex-convict fatally damaged a similar cherished ancient 500-year-old oak tree in Austin, Texas, ominously named Treaty Oak.  Arborists did everything in their power to save the tree but, finally, the tree died. Angry citizens of Austin demanded severe punishment for the criminal. The man was sentenced to 9 years. Just months after his sentence and conviction, he was released from jail. The Judge claimed that the man had “suffered enough” for the crime, but even so, the 500-year-old tree was still dead.

Perhaps, we should use the Austin incident as a lesson and erect an 8 foot fence around the park to be locked after dark?  At a minimum, the city should create a three dimensional scan of Treaty Oak. Then, it would be possible to construct an artificial reproduction of Jacksonville’s natural wonder for all to enjoy for years to come. Don’t laugh at the idea. Walt Disney World created a 15-story (145 ft. tall) 50-foot wide artificial tree (Tree of Life) in its Disney Animal Kingdom park, complete with a 300 seat auditorium underneath.

In order to confirm the age of Treaty Oak, we contacted Jacksonville Electric Authority’s (JEA) Forester, Michael Robinson. His nearly 30 years of experience in the field truly establishes him as an expert. Mike explained that he does not work alone. JEA’s forestry team also includes Foresters Joe Dunbar, Brad Norton, and Arborist Landall Demby.

Mike stated, “Oak trees by their nature grow rapidly leading to enormous sizes and misleading age estimates. Given the right conditions, an oak can grow as quickly as five inches of diameter per year, though most grow ½ to 1 inch per year. Normally, oak trees grown in urban areas are dwarfed by their inability to extend its root line. Naturally, its roots will extend to the end of the trees canopy. But, a tree in a rural setting (as Treaty Oak used to be) and near plenty of water will extend its roots nearly twice the length of its canopy. To answer your question, most professional arborists who have examined Treaty Oak believe it to be approximately 250 years old.”

When questioned about the trees impending demise, Mike said, “Unless it is a natural disaster, Treaty Oak will probably not die in our lifetime. Given its health, continued care, and other safety precautions, I expect it will live another 100 years or more.” Mike explained that lightning rods have been placed on the tree to protect it from lightning damage and that the boardwalk installed underneath the tree canopy serves a greater purpose. “It keeps children and adults off the giant roots that are exposed above the top soil. These roots must be protected. Damaging Treaty Oaks above-ground roots could easily kill the tree.”

Interestingly, the JEA has acted as a surrogate mother to raise thousands of Treaty Oak offspring. Mike commented, “This all began in the early 1980’s, when our Forester Joe Dunbar, as a hobby, started his own personal Treaty Oak tree farm at his home. The JEA considered it such a great idea that it adopted the program and now grows 1000 Treaty Oak saplings per year. These are given to charities and used by JEA to meet state and national legal mandates to replace every oak it must cut down for one reason or another. “I would estimate we’ve planted 5000 baby Treaty Oak trees since its inception.”

JEA donates 100 trees per year to Greenscape for its fundraising. Greenscape sells them at its annual tree sale held in March. Mike is most proud of JEA’s participation with cities ravaged by Hurricane Katrina. “We drove over and presented them with 100 7-gallon Treaty Oak trees. It wasn’t much, but they were so appreciative of such a gesture. Who knows, maybe 200 years from now, there will be a giant Treaty Oak offspring in Mississippi.”

Another conservationist and tree lover, Russell Skinner, owner of Skinners Tree Nursery, has grown seedlings from Treaty Oak’s acorns for years.

While visiting Treaty Oak for this story, I met a gentleman who lunches underneath the tree every day, who told this story:  “A man approached me and pointed toward Treaty Oak. He was from out of town and was staying at the Hampton Inn next door to the tree. Pointing in the direction of Treaty Oak, he asked, “What is a forest doing in the center of Jacksonville.” I responded, “That is not a forest, it is one single oak tree.” He could not imagine a tree could be so gigantic.” Maybe the signage needs to be improved to inform visitors what is under that canopy. Removing some of the extended branches which hide the trunk from a distance would expose the fact it is a single magnificent tree, so that visitors would be aware of its existence and would not miss this unique attraction.

Only three stately ancient trees remain in Florida. Be sure to include a trip to Treaty Oak for your family, friends and visitors to our fine state – and, take your camera.

CLICK ON PHOTO TO SEE SIGN

The area surrounding Treaty Oak was closed three months for renovations in 2011.  A new sign erected under the canopy warns visitors, "TREE CLIMBING ALLOWED."  

(c) 2011 Joseph E. Miller
THIS IS A STORY FROM JOE'S BOOK, "A SIMPLER TIME IN JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA."